I've just read a local blog story (here it is) that Good Food Store, an old grocery on Court Street in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, will be closing at the end of April. The shop owners do in fact own the building, but a bank made a high rent offer that they couldn't turn down.
I feel like screaming!
Not just because ANOTHER old grocery bites the dust for yet another bank, but because Good Food Store — an unpresumptuous place that functions as lifeblood for countless elderly in the area who only have to call, not even go there, for their groceries and the place will deliver them — Good Food Store makes the best fresh mozzarella around. Better than anyone else in the neighborhood, better than Eataly, better than Little Italy places, better than all of 'em.
I would not have known about it except that an Italian friend in the neighborhood told me about it a few years ago. Look at the photo above: the mozzarella sits on that worn counter atop an orange plastic tray in the midst of mixed nuts and Goya and Baby Ruth and Dayquil. Completely under the radar; celebrated only by those in the know. And unlike just about everything else good in NYC these days it seems, no fanfare or PR blah blah; not even, "We're the best we're the best." Just good cheese.
I've long wanted to do a story about Good Food Store and just hadn't gotten around to it yet. And now this news. So this is it. Actually, I've got some video too, and I'll try to edit it and put it up here asap, but I thought better not make cheese-lovers wait for me and my video making slowness — the clock is ticking.
So go before it's too late! Pick up some mozzarella. PIZZA people. CAPRESE people. CHEESE people. Get this mozz!
Quick story: A few weeks ago when I needed a couple pounds of mozzarella for some pizzas I was going to make, that cheese tray was empty.
"We'll have some soon, can you wait?"
"About five minutes."
The cheese that day was so soft and milky and fresh it was still warm 90 minutes later when I got around to dicing it up for the pizza.
"Can't you make cheese in some back corner of the property? Just the cheese," I asked the yesterday.
"C'mon," I said, "I can get garlic and eggplant elsewhere. But that cheese... no one has that cheese."
And soon, sadly, no one will.
Good Food Store. 431 Court Street (between Third Place and Fourth Place). Tel. 718-624-3788. Map Good Food Store, Brooklyn. Closing for good on April 30, 2013.